A perennially-long line is a primary indicator of a popular lunch spot, and if you get in this one (which you should), you’ll first notice tortillas being hand-made in the open-plan kitchen. Then you’ll spot the daily specials on a chalkboard—mole verde, various seafood tacos, that Bay Area rarity—and further along, chips, and aguas frescas—before you even hit the register. Get one of each! Stop in on a weekend for a (maybe) shorter line and some perfectly-seasoned huevos.