Old Delhi

When Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan laid the foundation for his new capital north of the ruins of Delhi in 1640, could he have known that his mighty Shahjahanad would become the last in a long line of 'Old' Delhis? Today, the walled city offers wonderful and unusual experiences to locals and visitors alike. The intense commercial hustle of the main streets fades away as one travels deeper into the complex maze of meandering streets and curiously named neighbourhoods, and it is easy enough to suddenly find oneself in a quiet sun-dappled courtyard dating to the early 19th century. It is this curious mix of contradictions that best defines Shahjahanabad: it is both boisterous and peaceful, commercial and cultured, decadent and decaying, dated, and yet so full of life. Dress conservatively, wear comfortable shoes, and, most importantly, carry along a healthy appetite.

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Daulat ki Chaat

Daulat ki Chaat is one of those things that were born and bred in Delhi. It is essentially whisked milk foam naturally cooled over night, especially by the early morning dew, served up on a pattal (leaf plate) with some khoya (condensed milk) and boora (sugar). The fancier versions which take their name too seriously (Daulat means Wealth), are adorned with pistachios and silver foil. Thanks to the natural cooling proocess, it is only available on push carts through the old city in the winter. For other days in the year, you might have to blow up a few thousand rupees trying it at one of those almost-michelilin star restaurants in South Delhi! Bubaram's cart is one of many you will spot, but it is also one of the best.

Daulat ki Chaat
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Daulat ki Chaat
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Daulat ki Chaat
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Daulat ki Chaat
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Daulat ki Chaat
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Daulat ki Chaat
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Ghalib's Haveli

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