Old Delhi

When Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan laid the foundation for his new capital north of the ruins of Delhi in 1640, could he have known that his mighty Shahjahanad would become the last in a long line of 'Old' Delhis? Today, the walled city offers wonderful and unusual experiences to locals and visitors alike. The intense commercial hustle of the main streets fades away as one travels deeper into the complex maze of meandering streets and curiously named neighbourhoods, and it is easy enough to suddenly find oneself in a quiet sun-dappled courtyard dating to the early 19th century. It is this curious mix of contradictions that best defines Shahjahanabad: it is both boisterous and peaceful, commercial and cultured, decadent and decaying, dated, and yet so full of life. Dress conservatively, wear comfortable shoes, and, most importantly, carry along a healthy appetite.

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Ghalib's Haveli

"I asked my soul, what is Delhi? She replied: The world is the body and Delhi its life." Mirza Ghalib (1797-1869) remains one of the most celebrated Urdu and Farsi poets, a true Dilli-wala. Part of the haveli where he spent his last years has been converted to a somewhat shoddy museum, but it is worth a visit not only as an introduction to the poet, but also as a great excuse to walk through Ballimaran, another one of those mythic neighbourhoods of the city. Named after the oars (balli) that shopkeepers once used to sell, today large sections of the bustling market specialize in spectacles, shoes and namkeen (savoury snacks).

Ghalib's Haveli
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Ghalib's Haveli
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Ghalib's Haveli
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Ghalib's Haveli
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Ghalib's Haveli
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Naughara

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