Old Delhi

When Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan laid the foundation for his new capital north of the ruins of Delhi in 1640, could he have known that his mighty Shahjahanad would become the last in a long line of 'Old' Delhis? Today, the walled city offers wonderful and unusual experiences to locals and visitors alike. The intense commercial hustle of the main streets fades away as one travels deeper into the complex maze of meandering streets and curiously named neighbourhoods, and it is easy enough to suddenly find oneself in a quiet sun-dappled courtyard dating to the early 19th century. It is this curious mix of contradictions that best defines Shahjahanabad: it is both boisterous and peaceful, commercial and cultured, decadent and decaying, dated, and yet so full of life. Dress conservatively, wear comfortable shoes, and, most importantly, carry along a healthy appetite.

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Razia Sultan's Grave

It is odd when you think of Old Delhi being much newer than many Delhis past. One such reminder is the tomb of Begum Razia Sultan (died 1240), the fiesty daughter of Iltutmish - the first ruler of the Slave Dynasty (of Qutb Minar fame). Razia ruled the sultanate of Delhi for a sum total of 4 years, but created history by being the first woman in the region to do so. Today her tomb is hardly worthy of her might, but nevertheless is an important marker. Don't be discouraged by the confusing and dark alleys and circuitous path leading to the grave. The current state of this 'protected monument' is deplorable, but the saving grace is that the local community has appropriately claimed the space by building a small make-shift mosque next to the grave.

Razia Sultan's Grave
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Razia Sultan's Grave
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Razia Sultan's Grave
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Razia Sultan's Grave
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Razia Sultan's Grave
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Razia Sultan's Grave
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Gali Batashan

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